by: Gerhild Fulson / Cookbook Author, Blogger, German Oma!
German potato dumplings, or kartoffelklöße (also known as kartoffelknödel), bring back wonderful memories of my Mutti’s Sunday dinners. This traditional recipe, passed down through her generations, creates a classic dumpling that pairs beautifully with almost any meat dish and, of course, gravy.
I found this treasured recipe in my Mutti's handwritten German cookbook filled with her German recipes, and I have prepared it countless times over the years. Each time, it always brings me back to sitting at a wonderfully laden table with favorites like rouladen and rotkohl (red cabbage). The page in her book with this recipe is so well-worn, showing just how much Mutti loved making these.
Even though it is traditional to serve these with rouladen, they are just as delicious with sauerbraten or a tender pork roast. If there are any leftover dumplings, they can be sliced and fried in melted butter for a delicious next-day treat. Served plain or with leftover gravy, they are simply irresistible.
In the photo below, I’ve served the dumplings with some leftover Dicke Bohnen und Speck — a hearty dish of broad beans and bacon. (You can find this recipe in my book, German Meals at Oma's.)
If you love leftovers as much as I do, consider making a double batch of kartoffelklöße so you can enjoy them fried the next day.
When you look at the photo above, you'll see that dark section in the middle of one of the slices. Those are croutons. These dumplings taste best with butter-fried bread croutons nestled in the middle, so don’t skip that step, even if you’re in a hurry.
There’s also a practical reason for including the croutons: they help ensure the center of the dumpling is fully cooked! Because there’s no raw dough in the center, the dumplings cook faster and more evenly. Once you make them, you’ll understand exactly what I mean.
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The best potatoes for making kartoffelklöße are:
Cooking the potatoes in advance, either the day before or earlier on the day you plan to serve the dumplings, is essential.
Cook the potatoes in their skins. Boil them until tender, and don’t peel them beforehand. A knife should slide easily to the center when they’re done.
Once cooked, let them cool slightly before peeling.
Rice or mash the still warm potatoes. For best results, place the riced or mashed potatoes in the refrigerator until cold or overnight.
For the smoothest texture, use one of these tools:
Note: Do not use a mixer. It tends to make the potatoes gummy, resulting in sticky, gluey dumplings—not the texture we’re after!
Personally, I prefer to use a potato ricer. Note that if the potatoes cool down, they can be tougher to press through a ricer, so it’s best to do this while they are still warm.
Now, then, it's on to make the potato dumplings!
But first you'll want to make the bread croutons.
The croutons add an extra layer of flavor and ensure a well-cooked dumpling. Here’s how to prepare them:
Once the croutons are ready, it's time to make the dumplings. Add the ingredients to the cold riced potatoes, either on the counter or in a large bowl.
You can use either potato starch, potato flour, or cornstarch. The potato starch is more traditional, but since it wasn't available for my Mutti, she subbed in the cornstarch, and it worked just fine.
Both of these can be used in making potato dumplings. Each has their proponents and with reasons why they use it. Since I grew up with Mutti using cornstarch, that's what I usually use as well. Since its properties are similar to potato starch, that's what I'd substitute it with.
Here's a table of the differences to help you decide which to use.
Continuing with the recipe, add to the riced potatoes, the starch, eggs, and salt. You can just do this on the counter, as I did, or in a big bowl.
Mix together with your hands until the dough holds together. Then divide the dough into portions and form the dumplings.
I like to use an ice cream scoop to measure out the dough. That way, the dumplings are similar sizes.
To keep the dumplings from sticking to your hands when you are forming them, you can either wet your hands with cold water, or dust your hands with flour. Either way works.
Make sure you hide a couple of croutons in the middle. Push the croutons into the middle and then re-roll the dumpling to make sure the opening is totally closed.
Gently drop them into lightly salted, simmering water. They will sink to the bottom. As the water comes back to simmering, gently stir them so that they don't stick to the bottom.
Very gently simmer the dumplings. It's said that they are ready once they rise to the surface of the water.
For me, they often rise to the top shortly after they start to simmer. I let them continue to simmer for the 15 to 20 minutes, in order to assure that they are cooked through.
When they are finished, remove them with a slotted spoon and serve immediately.
Test cook one dumpling to make sure it stays together, before you cook the rest. If it doesn't, you'll need to add a bit extra starch or liquid, depending on how sticky or dry your potato dough is.
By the way, that 'test' dumpling is a great treat to nibble on while you cook the rest of the dumplings. One of the advantages of being the cook!
For me, it's most important that there is LOTS OF GRAVY! Rouladen gravy or flatladen gravy is best!
Mutti had another recipe for kartoffelklöße called halbseidene klösse (half-silk dumplings) also called halb und halb (half and half), which combined boiled and raw potatoes.
It was her way of mimicking the more labor-intensive thüringer klösse made from a raw grated potato mixture, while making things a bit easier.
However, these "potato balls" (I find that a strange name that some people call these) recipe, that I've posted below, was her go-to recipe, especially as she got older and really appreciated being able to prepare parts of the recipe in advance.
That meant she’d cook the potatoes and rice them the day before, so she could quickly mix up the dumplings just before we came to visit. And, she’d always insist we come for dinner (how could we refuse?) since she enjoyed seeing us enjoy her food.
... that this simple side dish is one of the TOP 10 traditional side dishes to serve with Rouladen? Really.
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Words to the Wise
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Proverbs 13:1 (NLT)